Try exporting your Prusa Slicer profile into Orca. Willing to bet it will work the same
Try exporting your Prusa Slicer profile into Orca. Willing to bet it will work the same
I raise you one pumpkin dragon
I used to agree, but once you go Orca you won’t go back. Sure you have to kinda figure out the workflow but it’s just better IMO. All the settings you use in Cura are there, plus a ton more clever settings and features.
I might be biased because I use an MMU. Their way of handling colors is so intuitive and clear.
I have fond memories of being at a music festival with my LG G4 and 2 extra batteries.
No charging my phone, just pop in a new one when needed. Can even leave one back at camp to charge for the next day
I thought mine was dumb but apparently it had Z Wave! Was able to hook it up to HA easy. Double check it’s “dumbness” first!
I love having automations that keep my office from becoming an oven after noon
It’s a barrel block for a glock
Just finished her less than an hour ago! Function tests are 100%, test firing soon :)
Will be posting more on fosscad in lemmy
It’s a bit of a project but I can share my code which will give you a huge head start. There are good amount of people using it on a K1 too
The code the creator gives you is not great. It forces you to use filament 1 first even if it’s not present in that print. I fixed that and other things, made it swap colors 4x faster
If you have no plans of getting another printer and love your K1 I think it’s a great idea to just put an mmu on it
Here is a g-code guide I just wrote: https://www.3dchameleon.com/forum/printer-specific-installation/my-k1-max-g-code-updated
It’s a 3rd party MMU. There isn’t much documentation so you’re kind of on your own setting it up which is a pain, once I got it figured out it runs very smoothly though.
I just permanently leave for spools loaded up with my most common colors, even if I do a single print I’ll just use the mmu code so I’m not swapping spools for every print
It’s the barrel block for a Not-A-Glock 22lr handgun
I guess the horns mean bull? 😂 I didn’t consider that before
Congrats!!
I just started with fusion360 so I can’t speak to tinkercad’s ease of use. Take it slow and make some simple stuff to begin with, like 3d letters or a guitar picks. YouTube is a treasure trove of CAD info if you get stuck
The spiral notebook cover will actually be easier than you might think. You just need to count the holes and the distance between the top and bottom hole, then make a ‘pattern’ of holes that goes between those points.
This might be daunting right now, but Hueforge would be perfect for the designs on the front. You could do full color detailed pictures!
If you have any trouble reach out to me and I can help!
Here is a Hueforge I did, they are only 1-2mm thick which is perfect for a notebook front.
The lack of any original designs in your post history says otherwise
dude go learn CAD and stop wasting energy on being an internet-hater.
Contribute.
games these days suck in general.
I dont want a dozen in-game currencies and shit, I want to RACE
so your birth is the qualifier? lol
I’m only 3 so magsafe has been around before I was born!
So far RealRacing 3 & Riptide 2
open to suggestions!! It’s best with games that are gyro-only controlled.
I bet those ball-maze gryo puzzles would be great with the wheel as a grip
When someone asks you for a Kleenex you correct them or do you just hand them a tissue?
When someone asks if you have Q-Tips do you correct them?
Please don’t turn this place into Reddit
I split mine up into pages with buttons at the top