I have this exact same problem, but with a Chevy bolt. Some cars USB ports are “always on” and some aren’t. Might be worth trying different ones and see if there’s a port that doesn’t power on randomly. This didn’t work on my car, but it’s a common solution I came across when I was trying to figure it out. For now, I’ve just reverted back to wired AA.
I’m the same, those dongles don’t last, and are annoying to use. I picked up one of these cables from aliexpress to use with my iems and it works a treat. There’s better quality cables out there, but for 10 bucks these are solid.
I was thinking about an apple TV, but I’m not in the apple ecosystem so I’m not sure how well it would work for me. Shame, it does look like a great device
Good idea. I checked and it’s not transcoding, just direct play for audio/video so it’s not codecs. I’m still leaning towards bit rate being too high for the fire stick processor for now
No transcoding, it’s doing direct play for video and audio. The roku eventually gives up and plex gives a “your network is not good enough” error unfortunately
Good to know! I think I’m just gonna bite the bullet and get a shield pro then. Thanks!
Basically all tracking is done by Google ads. It checks at start up if you have purchased ad free or not. If purchased, launch app without ad library, else launch with ads. It has to be in the code because (according to the dev) Google is cracking down on similar apps, ie a pro version and a free version. So ad library has to be included, and it just won’t use it if you pay for pro
This post made me try again to find a solution, and maybe a USB extension cord with a on/off switch could work. It’s not automated but would be more convenient than removing the dongle each time. I’m thinking something like this