Reel Big Fish - Another F.U. Song

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ9YVF-wyho

Just want to add, not only is it a ridiculous number because of sales, there’s also free games that wreck the numbers.

Glancing at my unplayed library, sure there’s a bunch of leftovers from Humble Bundles I got ages ago for what amounted to a fraction of retail, but there’s also things like BioShock 1&2 Remastered - games that were given out FOR FREE to owners of the original. I’ve PLAYED the originals, but I assume the powers that be would tell you I have $60 worth of unplayed games sitting there since I haven’t opened the remasters.

Are you perhaps an LLM in disguise?

Worst thing? Someone with access to your password can now break into the associated account, and use that access to snoop or potentially permanently lock you out. E2EE data could be lost forever if they change the password and 2FA.

More likely? Unless you reuse passwords, or the associated site has been recently compromised, pretty low odds of compromise. If you suspect your 2FA has leaked, just get a new secret, easy peasy. Most reputable sites should alert you to a login on a new device, potentially giving you time to react or alerting you of snooping.

If your secret leaks without context on what site it’s associated with, then unless your name is Taylor Swift, odds of someone associating it to a site, let alone the matching password, are astronomical.

for reasons I don’t completely understand, Resilio Sync connections seem to be quicker and more reliable

Resilio runs a “relay” server to facilitate connections where neither peer has properly set up port forwarding. Only downside of Resilio is its not open source, so you just kinda have to take their privacy policy at face value. As long as op isn’t sending something super sensitive though, it probably is no big deal.

Lemmy and snarky references back to Reddit like that ex-girlfriend you’ve “totally moved on from”

You running the Trump campaign in your spare time?

Definitely no, viruses need 48-72 hours of incubation before the .mkv host becomes contagious. If the file is <24 hours old, I’d look for another source.

If you’re worried your computer might be infected, you should consider swapping your case LEDs with UV lights to purify your system.

I mean, it happens to all of us. Just the other day I was working on letting users change the font in an app and I accidentally made it so they needed to enter a valid credit card number to log in, complete with detailed instructions, and then accidentally charged them $20.

Not sure how any of that happened. I’ll definitely get around to disabling it soon though, I promise.

Updates will be made available on Steam, only $0.99 per patched minor bug, $2.99 per game breaking error, and just $9.99 per critical security vulnerability.

You can get a bug season pass with 3 months of fixes and an exclusive butterfly sprite at $119.95, a generous 1% discount off expected retail price.

For $229 you can unlock the super premium pass which gives you access to security updates 3 days before the details are published, and 30 days before non-super-premium pass holders (butterfly sprite not included).

EA account and premium subscription required for purchase.

I mean look you could just not use Visa right? We all have tons of other options, and they’re totally not a monopoly right? That’s why we’re not regulating them, right?

Yeah, for me, I’m looking for prettier not fastest after 120 Hz or so

If you can’t enter a kill code and have your phone self destruct into a million pieces, can your life even be considered private?

That’s what I figured, but I saw “high speed USB 2.0” a bunch of times and got confused.

I’ll be sticking with my smart outlets for the foreseeable future, can plug multiple USB hubs into a single one. Feels like it would only be an added benefit in a few minor things or if you’re really really space constrained.

I’m struggling to figure out the use case for this device - is it just a glorified outlet switch or can it communicate with the USB device?

It boasts “high speed” USB 2.0 data, but what devices is it actually capable with talking to? And what does it do with that info? Is there a list somewhere of compatible devices?

I assume data transmission rates over ZigBee are a joke (as they should be, it’s for low powered networking). What benefits are there to having this thing as a middle man for your data?

Not trying to hate on it, just really struggling to come up with a use case in my mind.

This somehow makes me less trusting of the previous comment.

capture the generated codes and time of input in some way, then brute force hashes until they generate one that produces the correct codes at x time

Given a TOTP key is usually at least 18 characters for a 6-digit code, having only one data point sticks you with something on the order of 10^28 possible keys for a given singular code (way more if case sensitive). You’d need to be regularly intercepting TOTP codes to brute force your way to the right key, and even then it’d only be valid for a single site. At that point it probably means you’ve fully compromised the connecting device or server, at which point, why do you even need the TOTP again?

Look, I definitely get it, but just a note, encoding 100+ 4k HEVC movies is going to take months of time at full PC loads. It’s a subtle cost, but depending on your electricity rate, running a 200W PC 24/7 for 3 months straight may hurt your bottom line more than it helps.

If you already have the storage, the cheapest option may be just to keep it. If you’re looking to increase the size of your collection it may be about even to save 6 TB via encode and to buy an extra 6TB disc, depending on your setup

You’re about to embark on a massive journey and I wish you the best of luck :D

Compressing 110 4K movies is going to be a long encode time, but it will be so nice to digitize that collection.

First question: if you already have them ripped and stored, do you even need to re-encode them? If you have a powerful enough Jellyfin server for transcoding, that may be enough.

That said, if you’re looking to optimize for space and quality, there’s some questions to ask:

• proprietary (but ubiquitous) HEVC or the emerging open standard AV1? It’s going to be a lot easier finding tips/guides for HEVC.

• Constant Rate Factor (CRF), or Average Bit Rate (ABR). CRF tends to be more straightforward if you have a varied collection of content because it let’s the encoder choose settings to deliver consistent quality. 2-pass average bit rate is good if you have a target size or compatibility in mind - great for squeezing out the absolute optimal quality if you’re trying to fit on a Blu-Ray disc or meet certain streaming criteria, but 2x the encode time (hence “2-pass”) can be a tough sell.

Stick with software encoding, steer clear of hardware solutions like NVENC. They’re crazy fast, but inconsistent quality.

There’s some guides out there on converting DV to HDR 10+ etc, but I don’t have a lot of experience with that process.

That’d be Antenna Pod. It’s (IMO) not as good as Pocket Casts, but FOSS is always good.

The thing that keeps me on Pocket Casts is really just the superior queue management. I’ll keep checking back on Antenna Pod though