Nice! I hope it’s not too hot when using it. I once made a case that wasn’t able to sustain the temperature.

They need a cloud connection for the setup, but there is a “LAN only mode” (there are still some messages yet). There is also a new X1E (enterprise edition) that is said to be totally offline if needed.

Nice !

I would go with wood filament.

I just measured it and the overhang behind is half the bed and half the infamous cable. You need around 60cm between the front feet and the wall behind, for the cable not to be torn when the bed is all the way to the back.

The bed goes back and forth. On the back, you need the place since there is the infamous cable that should not be torn. On the front, the bed can go over the void. There is no need for a 70 cm large table, maybe 50cm with overhang.

It’s a mess. I have the A1 with AMS and it takes way more space than I wanted. The coreX with AMS are way more compact.

Edit.
Wide 80cm (with the poop chute on the left and the AMS on the right) Depth 70cm (with all the cables and the bed going back and forth) Height 60cm with the top roll

I would like to get one for our club but I can’t understand the wide variety of prices. $150 ? $500 ? $2000 ? $10000 ? $75000!! ? What’s the cheapest that is not a pain to use ?

What slicer is it ? I will check if it is possible to set no purge at all in BambuStudio - since I have an AMS lite.

It looks feasible with a purge multiplier set to 0. https://forum.bambulab.com/t/setting-an-unbeatable-record-no-flush-at-all/51052/4

I say to people : if you’re interested in 3D printing, you need two hobbies. 3D printing and anything else. The second hobby can be repairing things, a sport (spearfishing for me), board games, electronics, etc.

I started with a 100€ very small 3D printer for years (Tina2) and that was so worth it. Now I have a Bambulab with AMS and it’s night and day.

I agree with the other comments. Yet, it’s a beautiful design. What software do you use ?

Every time I see this contraption, I can’t stop to think about Gardena making propellers. Due to the chosen colors.

Don’t tell me what to do. Upvoted.

Congratulations ! I usually make 4 or 5 iterations too for each piece, with my least favorite color (toilet paper pink that looked fuchsia on the website). I even launch a print and during the printing I correct my model based on the n-2 print.

I do it in OpenSCAD too with a depth-map https://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Other_Language_Features#surface

Thank you for your time! You’re so kind!

What matters :

• Auto calibration of Z-offset (multi-points). Your bed will warp with time and you don’t want to fight with it.
• PEI magnetic bed. You don’t want to fight with your things not sticking to the bed - or sticking too much. You may still have issues but less.

You will be happy with this as a cheap starter printer around 200$.

After some time, you may want to print bigger things, faster, and with ABS/ASA for technical parts. Then you could invest in a bigger printer, faster, hot and with an enclosure for ABS fumes and warping issues. The budget for this is 600-1000$.

Do you use glue or hairspray for ASA ? I could not manage warping without hairspray.

It looks like your corners separate from the border. I have this issue du to the new “smart” borders from Cura. It turns in the other direction for this to be easily removed… I have disabled this feature.

The last idea if everything fails : I had to change the geometry of the thing to prevent big long fat stripes like the bottom of your item. Making it an hexagonal grid may help to diffuse the forces. The shrinkage will be diffuse instead of along the stripe.

There is no issue to print this. But…

If it’s handed, it’s quite big. It has to be printed into multiple parts. I would make the metal things and the glowing thing separately.

The glowing thing will look like shit if 3D printed. You better should get an acrylic rod. You need a bunch of blue leds too.

There are filaments that look metallic. Or you would get better results by sanding it and painting it with special paints.

The whole project could be expensive. (~100 to $150)

Nice! Thanks for the details!

I have printed ABS things that I use for scuba diving and freediving. It’s like 4 years since I first printed them and they have been hours and hours in the sea.

ABS is great … but then I bought some ASA. It’s even greater since it’s UV proof.

ABS is hard to print due to retractation. I have to use glue. I have less issue with ASA, it’s easy to print, I don’t know if it’s due to the different brands.

ABS and ASA are making nasty fumes when printing. Be careful.

Finally, the last advice is to get one nozzle dedicated for ABS/ASA. The issue is that it needs to be printed at high temperature. Way higher than PLA. If you try to change the filament, the nozzle is either too cold to melt and purge ABS/ASA properly, or too hot and the PLA will be carbonized inside the nozzle. The nozzle will be clogged one way or the other. The solution is to dedicate one nozzle for PLA/PETG and one for ASA/ABS. It can be painfull to recalibrate the Z-offset on older printers.