If you don’t think you need ANC you’ve never experienced good ANC, even the best passive noise isolation won’t quiet down the sound of a full cafeteria or bus.

No wired iems will never be obsolete, but I will just be leaving them at my desk where the downsides over wireless are less.

They tried to ban phones in the hallways and cafeteria, while only providing online schedules which could change at a moments notice.

Ban went into effect, no one complied. Ban was lifted next week.

Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.

Got the fans in my pc turned up higher than needed just so i dont heat the coil whine.

ASA and ABS definitely do better at elevated chamber temps. What temp is enough I can’t say but I still saw improvements when going from 50 to 70c. Higher temps also let you use more fan speed without the added risk of warping so you’ll probably see better overhangs even though the temps are higher.

Id start with adding some chamber temp sensors first so you can measure what difference you are making with the other mods.

Using 4 mm abs panels I saw about a 15c improvement by just throwing a fleece blanket over the printer, so that might be an easy fix if you don’t print large parts frequently. Although higher temps are also great for layer adhesion on smaller parts.

Yeah ridga or vzhextrudort style gears definitely help greatly. You could do a mihai style test to see if the artifacts on the i3 are mostly extruder related or from the XY motors.

Tuning drivers consistently for quality is going to require an oscilloscope, although there are some experiments with attaching an accelerator to the motor while doing a frequency sweep.

Of course you could just change settings and see if there is a visual difference, but there are too many settings and combinations to make that realistic.

What chamber temp are you using for such a large part? I’d recommend at least 70+C but that might be hard to reach with acrylic panels.

Your bed will also warp due to the heat since its rigidly mounted.

Surface quality is also driver (+ driver settings) and motor related, and even the combination of them.

This actually works way better than people expect. Many authors are tied to a publisher but are still allowed to personally give away copies to students.

It’s Austrian German, so close enough to Dutch at times I guess.

I dont really game on my phone but my parents both got the Samsung a51 shortly after i got my Poco F1. And nowadays the a51 takes a while to load basically anything while the F1 still feels pretty snappy.

Chipset also plays a huge part in the battery life and camera experience.

For me I only start looking for a new phone when i get annoyed by how slow my current phone feels, I’m not saying you should get a shitty phone just because it has a good chip, it just really helps it not feel old in a few years.

Euro, although it should still apply to dollars since phones tend to be a bit more expensive here.

Somewhere between 300-500 Prioritising getting a decent chipset over the rest of the features, because having all the gimmicks doesn’t matter if the phone feels slow after a few years of updates.

Depends on what phone you get and where it cuts the corners. The Snapdragon 845 in my Poco F1 is still plenty fast 4 years later. The camera is still respectable even today.

The plastic body and shitty LCD screen aren’t great, but that was already there when I got it.

You only calibrate E, calculate for XYZ.

Calculate the rotation distance for the Z, if it doesn’t move the correct distance when asked you have a broken part.

Only downside is abysmal flowrates with hardened steel unless you’re using a hardened cht. Even the clone hardened steel chts are fine since its actually only the tip of the nozzle that wears fast.

Thinking about this again, could it be you have something like “wait for layer time” on and a very high minimum layer time set for your petg profile?

If its stopping 10 to 20 seconds there’s definitely something in the gcode making the printer hang. I’d try slicing the file again with a different slicer to be sure.

What printer do you have? https://youtu.be/Hvw3DrVAeTA?si=Pfy8z7OdlsybvbMN It could be this issue but that wouldn’t be material dependent but might show up more with petg since it’s more runny than pla.

Simple, just don’t ever swap spools after opening one.