I know right? They don’t come cheap from the Rainbow Factory, those ponies drive a hard bargain.

https://youtu.be/ilIubT7ands

Not with that attitude you can’t!

Yeah it’s legit, it’s been up a hot minute (since May iirc). I clicked the wrong zlibrary bookmark out of reflex and then remembered how hilarious the scare screen was.

More hilarious jokes have never been told in history

Let’s see the lifestyles of the CEOs for Springer, Wiley, and Elsevier for comparison.

FBI be like:

I… don’t condone such behavior but I also don’t hate this idea lol

The more they delete, the more they can resell every few years as “new” while charging ever more exorbitant prices for!

Are you trying to keep the spools sealed in bins with dessicant? If you’re in a moist climate, using plastic bins with some foam gasket added to the lids and a pile of dessicant is the only way to really keep filament long term without it turning into a wet bubbly mess in like two weeks. That’s somewhat unavoidable and means you can’t use many other storage methods, unless you are drying or printing from a dryer every time. Or are lucky like me and live in a desert.

At the college makerspace I used to help run, we had some shelf racking installed with rails that are parallel to the wall and about 5" apart. Spools sit perpendicular to the wall with their round faces cradled by the two rails. There’s also a standalone wood rack with similar rails that can be moved where needed. The filaments are grouped by type and each section is labelled, and then the filament itself is exposed so you can see color since it sits perpendicular to the wall. I’ll see if I can find some photos of it later.

Thank you for your service o7

This being self hostable makes me instantly like this. Something like G photos that I could self host and dump a lot of shit off my phone storage would be amazing.

Ok, so a vast majority of 3d printers do not connect directly to a PC these days. They have a self contained microcontroller.

The workflow is:

1. You design or download a 3D model you want to to print.
2. Open the 3D model in a slicer software. The slicer takes a 3D model and, using a profile designed for a specific printer’s nozzle size and controller, converts the solid volume of the model into G-Code, or machine readable code that is a series of coordinates and move rates. This tells the printer where and how to put plastic.
3. Export the G-code to a .gcode (or other) file. Save that file onto an SD card.
4. Put the SD card in your printer.
5. Select the file on the printer display and away you go.

Now, some printers use a network connection component, eg Bambu printers have a wifi adapter. This let’s them download firmware updates and receive print jobs from a computer remotely without needing to move SD cards. This does require the right software, e.g Bambu printers require proprietary Bambu Studio (or it’s open source fork OrcaSlicer) that has the networking module to talk to it. This doesn’t require special driver setup though.

I suppose that would work too, just solvent and then smear the outer walls of the boat. PLA is not exactly water safe though and will break down/become mechanically weak with long enough exposure. So it would be better to ideally seal the plastic entirely with a laquer

watertight boat and a free high? seems like a win win

Fiberglass may be overkill, but you would absolutely need some kind of sealing lacquer around the entire print or it will definitely fill with water.

There’s also a lot of porn

Interest rates are up. The free money tap got turned off so now every normal citizen is gonna get the broomstick up the ass to make funny big number go up.

Build out, cash out, blow out!

In order:

Dry your filament.

Wash the PEI sheet on the bed with soap and water. Let dry, reapply glue if you use it.

Verify your bed is actually hitting temp via an external thermocouple and that it’s thermistor isn’t taking a hike and overreporting temp.

I have a Creaform MetraScan 750 at work. It’s pretty neat, can get 0.005" accuracy or less out of it. We also have a HandyScan with single line mode for very small parts.

Granted, at $150k system cost, it is slightly out of the layman’s budget range…

An OpenScan kit is something that’s been high on my list for hobby purchases for a while. It looks pretty functional from the YouTube videos I’ve seen and my printer is fully capable of making the frame.