if they were they would not be pushing for zkp. this is all the old guard of CDU/KD idiocy.

the datasheet for this one recommends 255, which is also within range of the preset in orcaslicer. common wisdom on the web seems to be to go above the specified temps for petg, rather than below, with some people recommending 280 degrees.

that sounds worth trying! does it affect the surface finish?

that levelling tidbit is interesting. good to know.

i was thinking something along those lines too, but i’d have to build them into the model. petg is a bitch to clean off of the pei plate.

well it does bind, just not hard. the surface area of the central piece is enough to make it stick pretty well. it’s just these thin parts that are giving me trouble. but yeah, slowing down probably helps.

yeah it looks amazing! haven’t had time to try it yet though.

i’m looking forward to the cuba-style internet cafe culture where there’s a new hard drive of stuff every week

this is about the eu

the main probrem isn’t really what data is used for verification, but what data is made unavailable without it. if some conservative asshole decides that resources on sexual health (or alternate sexualities) are pornographic, then that information is effectively gone for everyone under 18 or without an account.

it’s the basis of orca fullspectrum!

orcaslicer allows you to add filaments needed for a print and paint your model with them, and the snapmaker fork simply picks the closest match of the colors and materials you’ve chosen to the ones it has loaded. you don’t really need to care about which extruder has what, as long as you set the right type of filament on the printer. and if you use rfid spools that’s also automatic. you can of course override that in the slicer if it selects the wrong filament.

the easiest way to start with is to simply fetch the loaded filaments from the printer and use those. when snapmaker orca is connected to the printer you get a “loaded filaments” section in the selection dropdown.

those all look like snapdryers.

the whole printer has only been used since january, and all the nozzles are hardened steel. so i don’t think anything has gone wonky with the hardware yet.

but switching to another head is a good idea. i’ll try doing that.

yeah i figured that out. i ran some intermediates without and i thought the bumps were small enough that the ironing would smooth them out completely, but no.

i did that for my latest test and i don’t know if it helped, but the default flow for this filament is insanely high compared to the default pla settings.

good tip!

you know the weirdest part? i’ve now seen the exact same surface pattern on two test prints. it’s not just that there are bubbles, it’s that they are the same size and shape. and that’s with different infill patterns; one rectilinear and one gyroid.

i sort of figured the gaps with the lower flow rate were underextrusion. i’ve already dried out the filament though. first for six hours on low heat in a snapdryer, then into my home-made dry box overnight. the dry box just a plastic bin with a hygrometer, a one-way valve so i can pull some air out with my vacuum, and one of those big-ass reusable desiccant bags for cars. the snapdryer read 10% humidity when i pulled the spool out, and the drybox is at like 11%. is that still too much?

as for temp, the official specs say it’s good for 190-230C, and the preset runs it at 215. could that be too cold?

another think i’ve thought about when looking through the settings is that the preset for matte pla runs very fast. the “generic pla high-speed” preset runs at 18 mm³/s, “snapspeed pla” runs at 20, and the matte preset runs at 22.

it’s .45mm. it’s fine on gyroid it’s just on rectilinear that it breaks easily.

good to know, i switched to gyroid for the next test and while the infill looks better the top surface still looks like ass. i’ll attach a photo to the op.