I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.
Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.
If you’re running it in docker you can just check the logs, I do it like this: docker compose logs -f lemmy
, and see if you have requests from any instance in the log stream. For me it goes pretty fast, but you can always ctrl+c to exit and scroll up to see what you’ve missed. Might not be the most optimal way, but it works for me.
Had to replace my UPS battery just a few days ago after a power outage reminded me that a replacement was well overdue. I share your feeling, now I can sleep knowing a power blip won’t knock out my servers and mess up my data.
Yea, I had to make a crontab task that resets lemmy every day. Hope it gets fixed in the future but for now it sorta works.
This may help: Container compatibility. MKV files will be remuxed when played via WebUI. Try playing an MP4 file and see if it’s the same.
Just MusicBrainz and a general music folder. I either use a SMB share or Navidrome to listen to my library, depending what’s most convenient. I’ve noticed that Lidarr generates huge traffic spikes when it fetches album info, rate limiting it on my Pi Hole, so I’ve stopped using it. I don’t like the idea of automating downloading music anyway, I prefer to listen to it first then download if I like it.
Since I’ve started automating stuff I’ve got myself an Acurite wireless fridge and freezer thermometer (initially found out about it on Reddit, before it all went to shit and all). It both has a nice magnetic display and it transmits in 433MHz band, so a SDR dongle plugged into my Home Assistant machine can receive the temp readouts. So far it didn’t prevent any disasters, but at least I know how hot it needs to get for the fridge to start having trouble keeping cool.
I’ve never self hosted, started maybe two years ago. First I’ve started with a Raspberry Pi 3, but quickly decided that 1GB of ram, and limited power was not enough for my needs. I’ve got myself a Dell OptiPlex SFF (used), it came with 16GBs of ram, then I’ve added a 4TB HDD. I’d say, this is an “entry” piece of hardware, as it’s cheap and sips power (around 15-20W at idle). If you don’t need the disk space or much power, go with a micro (whichever manufacturer you chose, HP, Dell, IBM), they’re cute little boxes that make a RasPi seem both underpowered and overpriced (for a used one anyway).
AndOTP is no longer maintained. I’d suggest switching to something still supported, like Aegis for example.
Ironically Nitter stopped working lately, since Twitter started requiring users to be logged in to read anything.
From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.